Tuesday, August 30, 2011
September 6, 2003 - Jeness Beach, Rye, NH
More Fabian swell! Larry came in from western Mass. the night before and we got all pumped for this big surfing day. I dropped Lisa, Laura and Madison off at the airport and then met Larry up at Jeness. I checked out the Wall before which was cranking (the photo). South beach was cranking too and winds were only 5-10 mph. Perfect. We checked it out for a while and you could see there was time between sets which were up to head high. The water was a bright cloudy green which was really cool. Not much of a problem getting out because of the lulls. Larry's friend Scott S. showed up, so we had a tri-crew. There were some really beautiful waves coming through mostly in the waist-chest range with occasional head high sets. The water was glassy at times too. The waves in the morning were somewhat steep with some real dumpers and kind of tough to work the face without getting enveloped by whitewater at the end. Caught some decent rides and then we took a long lunch break and prepared for session 2. I definitely had better luck the second session. But man there were a lot of people (guys and girls). Some times it got too crowded in one area. The waves were the same size but less dumpers and easier to get into. A caught one of the best rides I've had yet. It was a super long left just workin the right part of the face the whole way then diving dramatically back in to the wave. Had some long rights too. Larry and Scott had some good rides too. This was just the perfect day. Warm sun...awesome surf...Saturday..and the water still warm too. But still not as insane as they hyped it up to be.
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