Friday, August 30, 2013

August 30, 2013 - The Wall, Hampton Beach, NH

I think this was the last straw.  It's officially time to buy a long board.  It wasn't because the surf was too small.  The waves were just too hard to catch on this in-between size board and there were so many people getting long easy rides with little effort.  It almost felt like they were cheating.  Well, I guess if I wanted to get into the crowded lineup where the it seemed like the only spot where the waves were breaking, I could have caught more.  But these days, competing for waves is just not the relaxing experience i'm looking for.  Escaped from work at mid day on this Friday before Labor day weekend and kids were down in Mattapoisett, so it was a solo trip.  Swell was weird, almost hard to put a size on it, I guess I'd say mushy on the outside hard catch sets and steep on the inside short breakers.  I got a few OK rides, but nothing all that great.  Iv'e had better days when it was smaller and cleaner.  So, yes, next summer I will have a lazy long board and maybe a new wetsuit.  Surfing still rules.