In this work at home era, it is unacceptable to not use it to my advantage in constructing my own recreation schedule. That's why I went surfing this morning. I packed the new Ricky Carroll into the Prius and shop to the wall on this 55 degree mostly cloudy morning. It's been a long time since I have surfed in the fall and this reminded me of the good ol days surfing with Larry. There were not many people out and I parked at 8th St. Surf was actually bigger than I expected with clear sets coming through, but somewhat bumpy with a slight rip current. I wore full gear including booties, gloves and hood. There were some big sets coming through and I'd say there were some sets that were head high, but mostly waist-chest. Caught a couple good ones (rights seem to be preferred), but it was mostly a struggle and (good) workout. Definitely had some dramatic wipeouts/whitewashes. Some nice cryogenic benefits of the cooler water. This might inspire me to use the winter suit this winter.
