August 29, 2010 - Jeness Beach, Rye, NH

I got barreled! (I think)...or tubed or whatever. I was crouching low and holding the rails on a right when it happened. Awesome surf from Hurricane Danielle which was way out at sea producing some nice pacific style ground swell sets in the waist to head range. Mostly waist to chest high, but there were some occasional head high sets that would catch you inside. Got a lot of fun rides, rights and lefts,but there were a lot of swimmers to watch out for. I had to bail a couple time on the face to avoid spearing people. There were all kinds of surfers, old, young, girls, etc. The waves were really easy to catch and I actually got two sessions in! After surfing I helped Mel and Madison catch some little waves on their boogy boards. This was Mel's first time in surf and she did awesome! I was pretty tired by the end of the day. We got caught in a lot of beach traffic and went to Fast Eddies afterwards.