Tuesday, August 30, 2011

September 24, 2004 - Jeness Beach, Rye, NH

Sizable ground swell from Hurricane Karl which was in the middle of the Atlantic. I took this Friday off, but I was surfing solo. Nice weather sunny in the upper 60's with no wind. Checked out the wall first which was flat with big sets far apart and kind of closeouts as usual. Parking meters were also still up in Hampton so I went to Jeness. ON my way up I saw someone ripping it up on a big wave at Foxhill. Jeness was about the same size as the wall, but you could catct a left or right on the waves. As I paddled out there were definitly some bombs coming through. There would be periods of almost flatness and then a monster set would arrive where you'd have to paddle out not to get wipped out. Some of the sets were head high and bigger, but not overly menecing because they were somewhat mushy. I surfed for a while on the most northern end of the beach, but I had a hard time catching a direction before the wave closed. Nonetheless, I caught some big ones! I then tried down on the main beach in my usual location and caught some nice lefts on some chest-head high waves. I was able to drop in and then carve back up the face and drop in again to try to work my way around the white water. It was pretty cool. A lot of paddleing and a real fun workout.

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