Wednesday, August 31, 2011

May 20, 2006 - The Wall, Hampton Beach, NH

Its been 4 months since I've been surfing and 8 months since I've been surfing in New England. The report said kne-thigh high, but it was definitely waist-head high. The water was still very cold so I wore booties an gloves. My suit is starting to get old and I can really feel the cold water rushin when I go under. It was kinda tough getting out, being out of shape and all. The waves were definitely bigger than I bargained for, but I did manage to get a couple nice lefts on some chest high waves before I got too cold. It was fairly clean with a southwest wind. There was one head high wave that I was about to drop in on, but chickened out. I probably would have bit it anyways. Only lasted about 45 min.

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