Tuesday, August 30, 2011

August 4, 2004 - Jeness/Wall, Hampton Beach, MA

This was the very start of ground swell from Hurricane Alex but it was pretty weak. (Reports in RI were chest and clean.) I met Scott at 2SI after work and we checked out the wall. It was about 80 degrees with no wind so the waves were clean, but the tide at the wall was too high so we went to Jeness. The waves reminded me of Cowells in Santa Cruz because the water was flat and super calm with no wind and then a knee or thigh high perfest wave would come. These were perfect small longboard waves. I got some long rights where I was crouching down low on the face of the small wave like longboarding. We stayed at Jeness for only about an hour and then went to the wall which was kind of disappointing. It was smaller, weaker, more crowded. You had to wait about 10 minutes for something that was big enough to ride. If the waves at Jeness were a foot bigger, these would have been ideal conditions. It was fun none the less. We surfed until 7:45 PM.

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