Tuesday, August 30, 2011

December 12, 2004 - Jeness Beach, Rye, NH

Guess what?... We went to Jeness again. That's were we surf now, and its OK with me. Air temps were in the low 40's, water temps around 46, but there was almost no wind, so that kept us in the water longer. I wore my 2 mil top underneath my suit which is very restricting. I gotta get one of those hooded vests that Scott bought. So it was the three of us Scott, Larry and Me surfing together for about 10 minutes cause Scott was real late. He didn't get my messages the day before. Anyways, the tide at the wall was way too high to surf, water was crashing over the wall. I was kinda worried I'd be real cold, but I kept the white-washes to a minimum and it wasn't that bad. Waves were knee-chest high and clean. Beautiful surf conditions to start out...I was getting all kinds of nice long rights and lefts positioned on the face of the wave and rocking the board back and forth sidways to maintain speed and my position of the wave. The conditions changed a bit as the tide dropped, waves were more close-outs with less face. Had some nice drop-ins too, one where Larry said I could have got tubed if I went the right right instead of left and crouched. I ssurfed for about 1.5 hours, but Larry was in for longer with his winter suit. Took some videos with our new Canon camera.

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