There were a couple storms out at sea, and this turned out to be the beginning of a week long swell. Too bad this was the only day I got, but it was good. It was a Friday morning work day, so I woke up at 5:30 and was at wall just before 7 AM. Surfed at 6th street to try to avoid crowds, but they came after a while. People were already leaving, but the waves were solid. It was probably waist-head and clean with some decent power. A little tough getting out, but glad I took the RC, which is a little smaller and lighter. I caught about 5 waves and a couple of them were just killer rights on the face. Water was pretty warm, but air was cooler. Was back home by 9:30.
No comments:
Post a Comment