This was deja vu from a year ago. Surfing before the DSO show at the Casino Ballroom. The surf report didn't give this day a chance, but it was the most fun I've had on waves in a long time. It was about 2 hrs after high tide and waves were about knee-thigh high with no wind. Water was pretty warm, but I wore booties anyways. I met this other surfer on his way into the water who was totally stoked about the surprise conditions (he called it double push conditions) and lack of surfers there. So we surfed together and had a blast. Long board of course and I must have caught 15 waves in the hour + I was out there. Mostly mid range rides rights and lefts with a couple nice long rides. There was a sort of pressure to compete, but really we were just having a blast. Lots of floating seaweed kinda reminded me of Cali.
No comments:
Post a Comment