May 18, 2014 - The Wall, Hampton Beach, NH

This year I am determined to get out surfing more after only 4 sessions last year.  Sunday morning was my chance to use my new 4/3 suit that I got boy my birthday.  Arrived at the the wall at about 9:30 after being held up by a huge tow truck convoy.  At first look, I was surprised to see rather large looking surf but it was about waist to chest.  Water 50 degrees and air 63 degrees.  I was a bit concerned about my damaged finger and having just gotten over a nasty virus.  But all was good.  I taped up my finger, and put on my new tight suit, bootys and gloves and headed out to low tide.  At first, the waves were hard to catch.  They would break out far and reform.  As I drifted pretty far south towards the yellow hotel, I got a bunch of really fun and long rides on the face.  Had to catch em as they were building high.  Got some nice long lefts and a really nice right or two.  Some of these you had to crouch and pump to keep going.  Never had any problems with crowds in the lineup.  Plenty of continuous waves for all. I got out and walked back north seemed like a quarter mile.  Got pounded by waves trying to get back out near my car, then got back to my car just in time to see an officer finish writing me a $25 ticket.  Fun morning.  I need to surf at least once a month.