Monday, June 19, 2023

June 18, 2023 - Jeness Beach, Rye NH

 It was Father's Day and Laura and Melissa had just left for Puerto Rico.  Evan asked me what I wanted to do today so he basically couldn't say no to my request.  I haven't been surfing since October.  It was in the 60's and mostly cloudy, so perfectly no crowds.  Surf was about knee to waist with defined sets.  Parked at the beach access entrance for free.  So my goal here was to get Evan surfing.  He wanted to try, but I did not know what to expect.  I figured that the 7 ft WRV might be the most managable board for him because it's light and so is he.  I rode the RC.  He actually fit into Melissa's suit, so this was good - he would be warm, and he was.  Well, the first 5 minutes were awkward for him learning, but, not gonna lie, he caught on quick.  He was able to balance and he caught a few rides in mostly on his belly, but tried to get up.   I heard him hooting and having fun.  It was great.  His session ended when a set came in and he was off his board and the board ended up hitting him on the head, but not that hard.  It could have been worse, if a fin hit him in the head.  I told him to abandon the board and dive into the wave and let the board go behind him, something he has to learn if he wants to keep surfing.  I stayed in a little longer and caught some nice ones.  We went to the new CR's store after and he tried on a wetsuit, but wasn't sure if he wanted to buy.  I finally also tried out the action CAM and got a couple of videos.  They are very clear.




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