Woo Hoo!! Monday morning workday PTO and caught the tail end of the Hurricane Earl swell. I got to the Wall and it was still pumping, so much that I didn't want to deal with the size and power, so went to Jeness. I saw a bunch of older men getting out of the water, so I knew this would be more my speed. Parked on the street for free and went in through the beach access trail. I brought the RC, which is a great board for bigger surf, without it being too clunky. Conditions were absolutely perfect, chest to head high, but not too too hard to get into the waves, almost no wind. You just had to catch them later than you think. But these were the waves that you commit to, big enough that you ride down the face and get some nice speed, something I haven't experienced in a while. I got several really fun and fast rides, two of them very long, but mostly lefts, which was nice. Water was warm, surfed for about 1.5 hours. Bordering epic for me. It flattened out with the incoming tide for the last 10-15 minutes. Photo is of the wall.
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