Storm swell was forecast for this weekend and I decided to skip Saturday and go for early Sunday morning. I don't think was a hurricane out at sea, but the swell was definitely worthy of it. I checked out the wall first, but it looked a bit treacherous for my liking, especially since I'm not wanting to blow out my back. Continued on up to Jeness and the road was already lined with cars. I parked pretty far up, but cut in through the northern most beach access point. So I ended up surfing at the norther most point of Jeness Beach near Lockes Point. Wind was 10-15 mph blowing from the southwest, so you have to constantly expend energy positioning yourself. There were head high sets with waist high waves in between and these were really nice waves once you got into them. Not really closeouts, but you had to get into them reasonably late since the wind held them up. There were really lots of people crammed into this little area, so it was getting kind of annoying letting people go all the time. Definitely had the ride of the year on a nice chest high left, but really only had about 4-5 rides (all lefts) in the 2 hours I surfed. Definitely let a few get by. This was pretty epic, about as good as it gets, but the wind was a bit strong by the time I got out of the water at 10 AM. Surfed for 2 hours on the RC. I was sore for a couple days after. Top pic if from the Wall at 7:45 and bottom pic is Sawyers at 10:15.
