Thursday, September 28, 2023

September 28, 2023 - Jeness Beach, Rye, NH

There has been more surf this September than any other I can ever remember.  If I lived closer, I'd be there more often.  This was kinda spur of the moment "Its sunny, I don't have much going on at work, and it's a shame to miss all this surf" trip up to Jeness.  It was high tide when I got there, so Jeness was the best option.  Parked at the beach access trail for free.  It was pretty scare of people, but good waves.  Just a few surfers and dog walkers.  The ocean was very Pacific-like.  Seaweed, ocean smell, no wind, but sizable waves.  Just something about it, maybe it was that swell that is coming out of nowhere that is always present in the Pacific.  I realized that I could not put my modified booties on because there is too much neoprene that won't stretch.  Didn't need then anyways.  Used the RC again, my go-to board.  Got a few decent rides.  It was mostly waist-chest, but there were some occasional big sets.  My flat out best ride was a left that I caught at just the right time to get into the face and pump it.  It started to close out, but I worked my way around it and kept the ride going on the face for a while.  Sick!  Took some random shots with the SLR.



Monday, September 18, 2023

September 17, 2023 - Jeness Beach, Rye, NH

 This turned out to be a great day.  Hurricane Lee swept by the day before with really big clean surf, too big for me.  We planned to go to the beach this day because it was going to be sunny, warm and good waves, and we planned to pick up Melissa at UNH and take her to the beach with us.  It was great to see Mel after her initial first 3 weeks away.  Got a good parking spot right near Cable Rd.  I wasn't even sure I was going to surf after my ankle swelled up from a bee sting. I made the decision after I put my wetsuit on and it felt OK.  Mel did not want to surf, maybe too much on her mind or the waves too big.  I used the RC again.  Really liking the versatility of this board, not too big or small, light enough.  These may have been the best waves of the season for me.  Caught several rides, but you had to get in them rather late, or you would expend a lot of energy.  My best ride of the season was a right that I kept pumping and turning on the face for a while.   Caught some rights and lefts on the face, but after a while the waves were closing out more with the higher tide.  Great day of surfing and I'm sore today, but my ankle did just fine.



Thursday, September 7, 2023

September 1, 2023 - The Wall, Hampton, NH

 There were a couple storms out at sea, and this turned out to be the beginning of a week long swell.  Too bad this was the only day I got, but it was good.  It was a Friday morning work day, so I woke up at 5:30 and was at wall just before 7 AM.  Surfed at 6th street to try to avoid crowds, but they came after a while.  People were already leaving, but the waves were solid.  It was probably waist-head and clean with some decent power.  A little tough getting out, but glad I took the RC, which is a little smaller and lighter.  I caught about 5 waves and a couple of them were just killer rights on the face.  Water was pretty warm, but air was cooler.  Was back home by 9:30.