From the reports it looked like there was going to be a good swell on Saturday morning. So I got up at 5:30 and was out of the house by 6:00 AM and at the Wall by 7:00 AM. Its nice to be up early. Took the Prius since gas is pricy and grabbed the RC, which fits inside. Man, I did not think it would be this big. It was like the biggest hurricane swell. The tide was coming in at the wall and I did not want to deal with surf this big with a slightly ailing back muscle problem, so immediately headed to Jeness. At 7:15, you already had to park past Cable Rd. I sat for about 20 minutes and watched the swell and I wanted it to mello a bit before I went out. The tide was coming in and I noticed it started to calm down a bit. Once I got out it wasn't as bad as I had imagined, but there were definitely some big ones. You had to get them rather late, so it could be a steep and fast drop in. In only caught a few, but what a great experience. I caught one where I was just getting in to the face and was high up on the wave and crauching, but had to bail or hit some dude. I t was the weirdest shortest ride and wish someone caught a photo. Photo is from the wall. Real good stuff!
