Hurricane Larry! I took the morning off to go up and surf the very beginning pulse of Larry...and Larry didn't even come with me. I used the 8'6" RC, which I have been using more and more. It's just a little more manuverable in the surf, going out and riding in. It was choppy, but there was a defined ground swell with sets, some pretty big. Water was warm and got a couple good rides on these mushy waves. Not too crowded with people. Surfed for almost 2 hrs. It seemed to flatten out after the first hr with the waves being more of a shorebreak.
Friday, April 1, 2022
March 28, 2022 - Sandy Beach East and Don Antonio's Beach, Rincon, PR
Yes, finally surfed Rincon, but it was small. That's OK, though, because weather and water were tropical, water crystal clear and waves clean. First time I ever surfed on my birthday and perhaps the best birthday ever! After going to a surf shop that said is was flat and wanted to steer me 45 minutes north (would have been a mistake), we checked out the beach and a guy told me to go to his girlfriend's shop, Punta's Surf Supplies. She hooked me up with the perfect 9 foot long board, similar to mine, but maybe better. It was a narrow "Modern" for $30/day. I started off at Sandy Beach (first ever north facing beach I surfed), but the waves were pretty inconsistent, like every 5 minutes, but I did catch a few nice lefts. After a while, I moved down the beach to Don Antonios, which is a flat bottom rocky reef break. These were mostly rights. Went back in at Sandy's but it was pretty flat. After a few hours of surfing, my ribs hurt pretty bad from not being used to having some wetsuit padding. We later went snorkeling at Steps beach, then checked out the surf at Domes, but my ribs just hurt too much to go back out. Surf was actually more consistent there. What an awesome area. I need to find some sort of rib protector.
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