In this work at home era, it is unacceptable to not use it to my advantage in constructing my own recreation schedule. That's why I went surfing this morning. I packed the new Ricky Carroll into the Prius and shop to the wall on this 55 degree mostly cloudy morning. It's been a long time since I have surfed in the fall and this reminded me of the good ol days surfing with Larry. There were not many people out and I parked at 8th St. Surf was actually bigger than I expected with clear sets coming through, but somewhat bumpy with a slight rip current. I wore full gear including booties, gloves and hood. There were some big sets coming through and I'd say there were some sets that were head high, but mostly waist-chest. Caught a couple good ones (rights seem to be preferred), but it was mostly a struggle and (good) workout. Definitely had some dramatic wipeouts/whitewashes. Some nice cryogenic benefits of the cooler water. This might inspire me to use the winter suit this winter.
Tuesday, October 20, 2020
Thursday, September 10, 2020
September 4, 2020 - The Wall, Hampton Beach, NH
This was the Friday before Labor Day Weekend and I planned to take Mel surfing. Little did I know the surf would be so good! It was ground swell from a OMAR out at sea. It was nice waist- chest sets. Probably the biggest surf that Melissa has been in. We found a good spot on the southern part of the wall and she tried and bailed on a few, all in great fun. I caught many waves, mostly rights, but two rights that were just so long and one that Mel caught on video. Another surfer was filming with his go pro and gave me a big thumbs up and shout! My arms were sore for days, in a good way. This is why I love surfing so much!
Monday, August 31, 2020
August 14, 2020 - The Wall, Hampton Beach NH
Day 3 of surf camping trip. Did I surf this day? Maybe. Met a guy named Brig, who was really nice. He was having some much fun swimming and paddleboarding even in tiny waves. Said he had just move here from VA. I took a swim and it was actually more fun than surfing. Nice clear water. Also tried the paddle board and discovered that it is just not a board you want to use in surf.
August 12, 2020 The Wall, Hampton Beach NH
This was a three night camp trip to Wakeda with our pop-up. A pretty nice trip actually, except for the extreme humidity. Because we have a new pup, we went to the beach first thing in the morning and left by about 11:00 AM. First day, we got up and went to the Wall. Surf was tiny the who week, but this was probably the best of the tiny days.
July 16, 2020 - The Wall Hampton Beach, NH
Catching up on surf log entries. Took the day off to take Melissa and Lillian to the Wall. I don't think I chose the day because of big surf, but was just not busy at work. I don't think Melissa even brought her board. Surf was not too memorable, maybe slightly messy and knee high. The air was slightly cold, but water was really warm. Lillian tried surfing. I asked her if she was OK, and she was like " Oh ya I got this, no problem. No, she needed a lesson. Anyways, good excuse to get out. We went by several burrito places, but the girls had to have five guys. It think this was my first time back into a restaurant since the start of COVID.