July 19, 2014 - The Wall, Hampton Beach, NH

Small surf was expected for this whole week.  Tides aligned perfectly for the Wall with low at 11:30 AM.  We arrived around 11:00 and the ocean was glass with no wind at all.  It was mostly cloudy so the crowds were small.  Ground swell at knee to waist high.  Water was really cold with some strange warm spots?  Kids played on the beach and didn't want to go into the cold water too much.  I have my McTavish which was the right board for the day.  Waves came in sets so you had to be ready or you miss out.  It was a wait between waves, but once you got one, man were they fun!  Caught more rights than lefts and had the best ride of the year on a left. Almost like a mini tube and beating out the breakwater. Actually got complimented by 2 surfers during the paddle back out.  The 9 footer definitely required a lot of paddling, but once in the wave, you are good.  I also noticed that if you don't keep the nose up during the paddle in, there could be disastrous results with a nose dive.  The photo is me on a smaller right.  Looks like the guy behind me is giving the thumbs up.