October 18, 2014 - Devereaux Beach, Marblehead, MA

Great to finally get back out there this fall.   Swell from Hurricane Gonzalo this weekend and I wanted to find a somewhat protected spot.  Hadn't been to Devereaux in 10 years when I had a nice July session.  The rest of the family went to Gillette for umass game, although I wish they came with.  Had to fight traffic through Salem to get there and when I did get there, I initially had that " I screwed up by coming here" feeling.  There was only one person out surfing in the one area that was breaking, so instead of trucking up to Gloucester, I gave it a shot.  This was the first time I brought both boards with me, but I used the long board.  It was a bit choppy but I was glad I stayed.  It was mostly waist high, but there definitely some bigger sets coming through.  The south wind provided a workout to paddle out.  I caught a few nice rides, but the waves didn't have quite the kick.  I nose dove on 4 in a row because I think it was hard to get in these kind of waves with a long board.  Two other kids came out and surfed after the first guy left, and they were gone in 20 minutes.  I was completely alone for about a half hour and it was kind of creepy.  After I saw a distance flash of lightning I decided it was time to get out and I caught the best wave of the day a chest high left.  Boots, but no gloves needed.  Surf looked even better the next day, but strong NW winds.  First photo is from when the tide came in after the waves flattened out.

August 24, 2014 - Jeness Beach, Rye Beach, NH

Seventh time surfing this year!  We had a family beach day as summer feels like its drawing to an end.  Beach was packed by 11:00 AM and we had to pay $15 to park.  It was high tide, so only choice was Jeness.  It was nice to see so many kids learning how to surf, but there were a lot of kids.  Water was warm and the wind was very low.  Waves were about knee to thigh high and really fun and easy to catch.  I probably caught twice as many waves on my long board as I would have on my mid size.  I caught a fair amount of lefts and even managed to carve out a couple.  The big moment of the day was when Melissa wanted to surf, so I got her on the board and pushed her on a few small waves.  She stood up every time and had a blast.  Evan wanted to go too, but he needs to be a better swimmer first.  I went out for a second session at lower tide and waves had dropped with lots of red seaweed.  That's when I routinely jumped off the board and landed on the edge of a rock with my right foot.  I cut the edge of it, but also bruised it.  Still contemplating whether to get an x-ray.  Hope I can get out 1 or 2 more times this year.

 

July 29, 2014 - Marconi Beach, Wellfleet, MA

This was fun.  Nice weather and waves on the beautiful outer Cape during our stay in Falmouth.  We chose Marconi because the first 2 national seashore beaches were full according to signs on Route 6, and we had free parking. The beach was packed and the waves were about waist with some chest high.  It's tough just getting into and out of the shore pound on some of the Cape Beaches.  Waves on the outer cape can change quickly with the wind and tides.  I had my WRV, but I really needed my long board like all the old timers that were out.  Surfed for about 1.5 hours+ and caught a few fun ones, but they tend to fizzle out.  There was a lot of waiting for sets and it got a little bumpy.  A majestic place to surf once the crowds thin out.  Kids didn't even go in the water.  When I got out of the water, I was being photographed by someone.  I gave him my email address and he actually remembered it and sent me some good photos, the first one being his.

July 19, 2014 - The Wall, Hampton Beach, NH

Small surf was expected for this whole week.  Tides aligned perfectly for the Wall with low at 11:30 AM.  We arrived around 11:00 and the ocean was glass with no wind at all.  It was mostly cloudy so the crowds were small.  Ground swell at knee to waist high.  Water was really cold with some strange warm spots?  Kids played on the beach and didn't want to go into the cold water too much.  I have my McTavish which was the right board for the day.  Waves came in sets so you had to be ready or you miss out.  It was a wait between waves, but once you got one, man were they fun!  Caught more rights than lefts and had the best ride of the year on a left. Almost like a mini tube and beating out the breakwater. Actually got complimented by 2 surfers during the paddle back out.  The 9 footer definitely required a lot of paddling, but once in the wave, you are good.  I also noticed that if you don't keep the nose up during the paddle in, there could be disastrous results with a nose dive.  The photo is me on a smaller right.  Looks like the guy behind me is giving the thumbs up.

June 29, 2014 - Long Sands Beach, York, ME

I've been out more times this year already than all of last year.  We stopped at the beach on the way back from camping up north.  This was my first time surfing in Maine and first time swimming in the ocean in Maine.  York is probably the most southern beach in ME.  This beach is similar to the Wall, but nicer.  Metered parking is right along the side of the road, so we were not farther than 50 feet from our car.  Parking is cut-throat and we lucked out finding a parking spot on only our second pass.  There is not much beach at high tide though.  The water was really warm.  Waves were about knee-thigh high and I had good luck using my WRV, even though the McTavish would have been better.  Caught lots of fun little waves, but only one or two that were on the face.   I got Melissa on the board paddeling around and she liked it.  She took a couple of rides lying down.  We got soft serve at a place right across the street.  Considering how cheap parking is, with easy access to the beach, I'd come back here.

June 7, 2014 - Jeness Beach, Rye Beach, NH

After 15 years surfing, I finally got a longboard!  It's a 9' foot Mctavish that I bought from someone in RI. Its rather thin and narrow, but for me, it is fine.  After a hectic day, went to catch some surf before a show at the Casino Ballroom.  Around 5:30 PM the tide was too high at the Wall, so went the extra 8 minutes north to Jeness.  Luckily found a parking spot.  Weather was in the upper 70s and water felt pretty warm, so booties only and no gloves.  Waves were pretty small about knee to thigh and came in relatively mushy sets.  Surfed for about and hour and a quarter.  There was plenty of room to surf with only a couple of people around me. So, to review my new ride...definitely a bigger, heavier boat that is harder to set up for a wave.  You have to be prepared to turn that thing around when a wave is coming.  Although you still have to paddle hard into waves, now catching waves is much easier and the rides are much longer than my fun board.  There is more momentum with this barge.  I could actually walk up and down the board and turn it in the direction that I wanted to go.  One thing I noticed is that you really have to keep the tip up while paddling into waves or you may nose dive.  Probably caught twice as many waves with less effort than my other board.  Snapped a quick photo with my phone.  Really glad to have a long board for the smaller days.

May 26, 2014 - Jeness Beach, Rye, NH

This is great! I've been surfing two weekends in a row in May.    The kids were accounted for elsewhere and to continue our anniversary weekend, we went up to the seacoast and Portsmouth for part of the day, Memorial Day.  I didn't expect to go surfing, or for there to be any surf, but it was in the knee to waist range and clean.  Not really enough waves to go around and it seemed to fade a bit.  Nonetheless, I had at least 3 nice long rides, mostly rights with many more shorter rides.  Booties and gloves still.  Beach got really crowded when we left and we were lucky to get a parking spot.  These were really long board waves and I still need to get one.  Good workout.  I call this photo "stepping off", photographed by Laura who fell asleep on the beach.

May 18, 2014 - The Wall, Hampton Beach, NH

This year I am determined to get out surfing more after only 4 sessions last year.  Sunday morning was my chance to use my new 4/3 suit that I got boy my birthday.  Arrived at the the wall at about 9:30 after being held up by a huge tow truck convoy.  At first look, I was surprised to see rather large looking surf but it was about waist to chest.  Water 50 degrees and air 63 degrees.  I was a bit concerned about my damaged finger and having just gotten over a nasty virus.  But all was good.  I taped up my finger, and put on my new tight suit, bootys and gloves and headed out to low tide.  At first, the waves were hard to catch.  They would break out far and reform.  As I drifted pretty far south towards the yellow hotel, I got a bunch of really fun and long rides on the face.  Had to catch em as they were building high.  Got some nice long lefts and a really nice right or two.  Some of these you had to crouch and pump to keep going.  Never had any problems with crowds in the lineup.  Plenty of continuous waves for all. I got out and walked back north seemed like a quarter mile.  Got pounded by waves trying to get back out near my car, then got back to my car just in time to see an officer finish writing me a $25 ticket.  Fun morning.  I need to surf at least once a month.