October 19, 2013 - The Wall, Hampton Beach, NH

There hasn't been a year since I've started surfing that I've gotten so few sessions in.  This was only the third time this year, fourth if you count FL in April, and I missed the entire month of September.  To be honest, the surf hasn't been that great this year, with an almost non-existent hurricane season.  But Friday the 18th had really good swell, clean and chest-head high, but rather windy.  Although I knew it would be a stretch, I decided to catch the leftovers early Saturday morning... and I mean early.  Because I had to bring Evan to a soccer game at 10:00, I had to be back by 9:45 AM.  So I woke up at 5:40, left at 6:05, arrived at 7:10 and was in the water by 7:20 AM. Sunrise was on 495.  I couldn't believe how many people were already in the water that early, and it got crowded by the time I left!  At first look it was low-mid tide about chest high clean sets and I think it actually dropped to mostly waist between the time I put my suit on and went in.  It was still pretty good though.  Wore the 6-4 winter suit with the hood off to the side, gloves and booties.  Air temp was about 45, but you could feel the sun strong from the east early.  Could have gotten away with a 4-3 and just booties, if I had one without holes.  Had to catch the waves late to get in them with the high winds.  Had a few short rides, but nothing really great.  Without crouching, the west wind tends to hold me back, so I had trouble getting into many of them.  As the session went on, I stayed on the inside and caught some of the more easy to catch smaller waves.  It was just nice to get back in the water and paddle around with the salt water on my lips.  Having no watch, when I got back to the car, it was 8:40, just enough time to snap one photo, then had to high tail it back home to make it in time. After driving 75-80mph, got back just in time at 9:40AM.  I'd call that dedication.