October 19, 2013 - The Wall, Hampton Beach, NH

There hasn't been a year since I've started surfing that I've gotten so few sessions in.  This was only the third time this year, fourth if you count FL in April, and I missed the entire month of September.  To be honest, the surf hasn't been that great this year, with an almost non-existent hurricane season.  But Friday the 18th had really good swell, clean and chest-head high, but rather windy.  Although I knew it would be a stretch, I decided to catch the leftovers early Saturday morning... and I mean early.  Because I had to bring Evan to a soccer game at 10:00, I had to be back by 9:45 AM.  So I woke up at 5:40, left at 6:05, arrived at 7:10 and was in the water by 7:20 AM. Sunrise was on 495.  I couldn't believe how many people were already in the water that early, and it got crowded by the time I left!  At first look it was low-mid tide about chest high clean sets and I think it actually dropped to mostly waist between the time I put my suit on and went in.  It was still pretty good though.  Wore the 6-4 winter suit with the hood off to the side, gloves and booties.  Air temp was about 45, but you could feel the sun strong from the east early.  Could have gotten away with a 4-3 and just booties, if I had one without holes.  Had to catch the waves late to get in them with the high winds.  Had a few short rides, but nothing really great.  Without crouching, the west wind tends to hold me back, so I had trouble getting into many of them.  As the session went on, I stayed on the inside and caught some of the more easy to catch smaller waves.  It was just nice to get back in the water and paddle around with the salt water on my lips.  Having no watch, when I got back to the car, it was 8:40, just enough time to snap one photo, then had to high tail it back home to make it in time. After driving 75-80mph, got back just in time at 9:40AM.  I'd call that dedication.

August 30, 2013 - The Wall, Hampton Beach, NH

I think this was the last straw.  It's officially time to buy a long board.  It wasn't because the surf was too small.  The waves were just too hard to catch on this in-between size board and there were so many people getting long easy rides with little effort.  It almost felt like they were cheating.  Well, I guess if I wanted to get into the crowded lineup where the it seemed like the only spot where the waves were breaking, I could have caught more.  But these days, competing for waves is just not the relaxing experience i'm looking for.  Escaped from work at mid day on this Friday before Labor day weekend and kids were down in Mattapoisett, so it was a solo trip.  Swell was weird, almost hard to put a size on it, I guess I'd say mushy on the outside hard catch sets and steep on the inside short breakers.  I got a few OK rides, but nothing all that great.  Iv'e had better days when it was smaller and cleaner.  So, yes, next summer I will have a lazy long board and maybe a new wetsuit.  Surfing still rules.

July 27, 2013 - The Wall, Hampton Beach, NH

It's been a very busy summer with kitchen renovations and other stuff.  The end of July and finally some surfing.  There actually hasn't been much surf this July.  We decided to go when we woke up.  Traffic was terrible and it took almost 2 hours to get there.  Could hardly even find a parking spot at the Wall, which is rare.  Tide was coming in, so there wasn't much beach room.  Surf looked kinda flat when we got there, knee- waist and clean.  I immediately jumped in and started catching waves, mostly rights and there were no surfers around me!  As the tide came in, the waves picked up to waist with occasional chest and clean.  Just really easy waves to catch and really fun.  I'm hooked again.  Only stayed for about 2 hours until the water was almost up to the wall and the kids had no more room to play on the beach. Checked out some 4/3 suits and Cinnamon Rainbows and got some ice cream at the Beach Plum.  

April 16, 2013 - Cocoa Beach, FL

Stop number one on our family cruise to the Bahamas.  The cruise from NY to the Bahamas with the Chaskelsons, Millers, and McKeons on board stopped in Port Canaveral.  My parents met us at the port and we went to the beach.  We just kind of found the main beach by accident.  Since we were fresh out of the north, and the sun was hot, we rented an umbrella and chairs. As usual, I didn't sit for more than 5 minutes and went straight to the ocean.  Started off body surfing with the kids and used the McKeons boogie board rentals for a couple of waves.  The surf was messy and about knee to waist with an occasional chest wave.  I had no intentions of surfing, but towards the end of the day, I rented a 7 foot long soft board for half price ($10) and gave it a shot.  The board was horrible, no rocker, no edge and heavy.  It gave me a good workout and I caught a bunch of waves, mostly after they had already broken.  Scott gave it a shot on the board with no luck getting up.  He needed a longer board.  Yes, that's him giving it a go in photo 2.  Heavy side current to fight. I ended up with a wicked sun burn because I didn't put much sunscreen on.  We went to Ron Jon Surf Shop afterwards and Ron Jons Restaurant before continuing our journey.